San Juan Islands Cruise Guide

San Juan Islands Cruise Guide

This is the Front and Back cover of the printed guidebook "San Juan Islands Cruise Guide"

San Juan Islands Cruise Guide



Chapter # 7

Planning that Cruise

     This is a really subjective task, which means you need to take charge and figure out your first trip,  but I'll try to get you going.

     First I think it would really help your planning if you go back and review some of what I hope you have read already.  Re-read the Q & A's resource Q & A's plus Ten things you need to know


       Second, study the packing list suggestions keeping in mind your goals. Obviously a family with young kids will have much different ideas of what constitutes a fun time. Packing List suggestions
     Third, you need to think about your boats ability's, I try to not talk sailing versus power versus a whole lot of power.  When I say boat ability, I mean motoring not sailing, you should not make plans where sailing to your destination is a requirement. Sailing should be considered a bonus when time allows that you may or may not be rewarded.  All planning to get from point A to point B should be around motoring distances and times, not sailing.
     Now that I have made an anti-sailing warning, you need to know that some of our best cruises have been where I refused to use the auxiliary. One trip we sailed from Friday right to the dock at Jones, then the next day we sailed off the float at Jones and made it around Orcas to our anchorage at Lummi, all under sail. Personal achievements or goals are just as valid as making a destination.(even two days later)  We used the currents and sailed, but threw the clock and destinations out the window.  My only plan that trip was to use as little fuel as possible and go sailing as much as possible.  We ended up going 120 miles and used under five gallons in a week.

      So, if you will be cruising with a putt putt at 5-6 mph, you should not plan to crisscross the San Juans on twenty five mile runs unless you set aside most of a day. Don't forget your speed over ground with an adverse current may be down to 2-3 mph.  On the other hand, fast planing boat skippers will discover their destination may be just an easy two hour sprint

     Fourth decide your time frame.  I know many people have a week or ten days for vacation and that's that.  Because weather and having a good time plays such a big role your plan should be flexible.  I suggest you not get pinned down to a tight schedule.  We try to allow one or more extra days that are unscheduled, for example we might plan a five day trip to Matia, Roche, Jones, and Pelican Beach, but allow time away from home and work to take a seven day trip. This way if we get forced to stay at Jones (I wish) an extra night, plus divert through Deception Pass, skip Roche for Friday and run down to Cattle Pass to watch whales at Lime Kiln we can.  I know that example seemed like I had no plan at all and that is exactly how we have one great cruise after another.   Our last planned visit to Butchart Garden involved almost no plan, just a goal.  "Get to Butchart and bicycle some along the way."  The cruise ended up six nights if I remember correctly and I will outline briefly right now what developed. You could copy and modify our laid-back schedule for your own easy relaxing cruise.  

This is how it went.
     Departed our slip in La Conner in mid morning after a relaxing breakfast and headed for Cypress Island. Anchor at Pelican Beach and hike to Eagle Bluff.  Up anchor, cross Rosario, slip through Obstruction Pass and arrive for night at Olga float. 2nd day, do some reading and dinghy sailing, depart after lunch for float at East Sound and bicycle town, anchor in Judd Bay.  3rd morning, swing over to Rosario, tie up for free next to gas dock and take three and half hour ride up,up,up to Morrow State Park and Lake Constitution, almost burn up brakes coming back. Cast off for leisurely motor all the way to Jones Island.  Anchor (to save fee) in plenty of time for sundown'ish west loop hike and evening campfire on shore.  4th morning, listen to weather forecast, checked tides, then timed mid morning departure to cross Haro Strait during slack water, after quick customs check in at Sidney arrived at Tod inlet and rowed dingy to Butchart in time for afternoon walk around, and then repeat with after dark walk around. Spent hour or so as darkness fell listening to concert on lawn and then paddled in dark back to boat, had great evening at anchor. 5th morning, upped anchor really early at 6am, made coffee underway to beat forecast storm across Haro, checked in with customs at Roche around noon, attempted bike ride and got derailed due to county workers paving and oiling road in first half mile.  Left Roche, drove right past Friday and anchored fifty feet from Odlin Park float. Used two anchors that night trying to keep bow into waves with not much success. 6th morning, after long breakfast biked most of Lopez until exhausted, moved over to James for last night at dock. 7th morning, hiked perimeter and over summit, read, typed this blog, dinghy sailed some more,  watched eagles, sat around James all day, departed with just enough time to cross Rosario and get back to La Conner by dark.  I think that was a six day trip, and we can't wait to do it again, except we will substitute Victoria for two days, skip Butchart, and Lopez, and add docking at Friday Harbor for biking San Juan Island again.

     There you have it, A very workable low key plan to go to Butchart Garden, with an Victoria option. You can tell by our wanderings before and after the Butchart visit that we were entirely flexible and just let things develop, in fact we had wanted to spend time shopping at Sidney but the port wanted $15 per hour to use a slip, so I said forget you and moved on. BTW they wanted $5/hr to tie our dinghy to the dinghy dock if we anchored out. Whats with that policy?

     Fifth set a date and go.  For your first cruise plan I suggest that you adopt some of our loose attitude, add your own needs and desires, and forge ahead.

     Throughout this guidebook are many tips and suggestions, if you heed them you will have a great time. For instance, somewhere is a tip about not navigating in the dark.  If you ignore that warning and try to cross an ocean of frothy water as the sun sets so you can meet your self imposed schedule you can expect to have a story to tell afterwards. I know, I been there, done that. I read a comment once somewhere about this skipper that never had any issues. It seems all his trips were boring, he seemed to be blessed with good gear, good crew,  good luck, and good weather all the time. I wonder what his secret was? do you suppose he just took his time?  Tip,  Learn where the out of the way anchorages are hiding and don't hesitate to take cover before you're in trouble, then you will be a little like that boring skipper.

         I will suggest that for your first trip that you do this.

  1. Go the first night or two to a camping type place.
  2. Next, go to Friday Harbor and anchor out or get a slip, and eat in town. Walk all around and visit the whale museum.
  3. Go to another boat camping, place.
        Or if you're more of a resort type, try this.
  1. First nights go to Fisherman Bay, next Friday, then Roche, now Rosario, your good to go.


Still too come, detailed sunup to sundown descriptions with milage and maps for the following:

One day trip from Squalicum, or Deception Pass

3 - 4 day trip from Squalicum

7 day trip from Deception Pass

Bonus article How to make Swinomish Channel your best friend.
   

Include link here with some suggested itinerary's
   get some pics of ????

Get a Chart
       At some point you need to get a paper chart.  I can hear some of you already saying I have a GPS with every chart in the whole world built right in.  I'll bet you paid plenty for it too, especially the 3D part. By all means get your moneys worth. But you have good tires right?  You also carry a spare tire. End of discussion.  Tip  Get NOAA #18421 Strait of Juan De Fuca to Strait of Georgia.  It covers Bellingham Bay to Deception Pass and Swinomish Channel all the way over to the edge of Vancouver Island with Victoria up to some of the Canadian Gulf Islands. It does not show Butchart Garden.
      There is a larger scale chart available, I wont argue scale size. This is the one I have and I'm happy with it.    Tip  Protect your chart, there will come a day when you will need to replace it and you will wish you had taken better care of it. I sandwich mine between two sheets of Acrylic held together with contact cemented velcro strips. In an open windy cockpit or rainy day it is a god send.
     On the chart/map subject,  I have a bunch of http://www.fishnmap.com. These maps cover large areas and are very useful, they are under $10 including postage I think.  We also have a few colorful semi topo maps that are really easy to look at for planning discussions. We found that over the years we enjoyed drawing a different colored line for each cruise and then dating the line for future reference and nostalgia. But we ran out of colors and the map became so covered with crisscrossing lines, many going to the same hot spots time and again that we quit writing on it a long time ago. We still carry the maps and misc guidebooks with us in a zippered lap top bag.


Gps and Depth Sounder
     You don't need either one but I would try my darnedest to have both on board, even if only handheld.  There are just too many ways they will save your bacon. Even in perfect clear weather if your unfamiliar with the landscape from four or five miles out you will not be able to dead reckon. You will have to study your chart, take compass bearings and do it all the old fashioned way.  Don't get me wrong, navigation is great in the straits and islands but do it by choice not because you have to. We use a 15.6" lap top with a chart plotter program and a usb antenna and have every Noaa chart installed, I love it, the big screen is so much bigger than all my obsolete chart plotters, and the whole package cost just $100 plus the lap top. No its not 3D.
     For a depth sounder we use a $79 Humminbird fish finder. Same story, these tools will save your bacon allowing you to have a perfect cruise. 



VHS Marine Radio
      I am wishy washy on the need for a radio.  On one hand, if an emergency arises, it is the accepted means of communication out on the water, but chances are you will not use yours, or at least not need to use it. However the radio is a source of entertainment, it seems a lot of cruisers can't be quiet and must constantly keep in touch discussing eta's, which side to hang fenders, when to start the chicken, and of course the all important sun-downers.
      If you don't have a radio already, and don't really see one on your ski boat in the future, I suggest you pick up a $99 portable handheld. There are several available and some float, which probably will seem like a good idea after you have dropped it over the side.  If your cruising with children and anticipate they will be hiking or exploring by themselves in the dinghy, you should again consider a portable. Then they can call you when they get stuck nearby or want you to bring them lunch.  A set of walkie talkies will suffice with the children, your choice.  You should know that your cell phone will work well in most areas. 


Navigating the San Juans



Decisions! Decisions! Decisions!

  • If your arriving by boat from from the south (Seattle, Olympia) you must decide which side of Whidbey Island to travel.
      • The Port Townsend Admiralty Inlet side is not where I recommend you choose unless you have a good reason. One good reason would be you plan to visit Port Townsend, Port Angeles or run straight over to Victoria. Then by all means go.  Bare in mind you may get stuck in the fog and experience rough water.  You may even end up being forced to hunker down in Port Townsend while waiting for your weather window to improve.  While that is not the end of the world, it may use up all your allotted vacation time. 
  • I recommend you go up the Langley, Deception Pass side of Whidbey Island.  Then when you actually get close, make the decision whether to go through Deception Pass or cut through Swinomish Channel.
      • The perfect solution in my opinion is simply plan to spend the night at either the seawall berths in La Conner or Deception Pass State Park in Cornet Bay.  Both destinations are about the same travel time when heading north, both offer lots of room and on shore bathrooms. If you happen to be running late, that's ok, both are open 24/7   
      • The next day when your ready to get going you can decide whether to head through the pass or take the channel, even if you end up back tracking and going the other way (Deception Pass vs Swinomish Channel) it's only about an hour and the scenery is well worth seeing again.
  • Ok, ok, I feel your questions  which way is faster (shorter)  and the answer is >> going through Deception Pass and right up the middle of Rosario Strait. Except  were only talking an hour or so difference, and that is mostly determined by adverse currents that are unavoidable. What about sailing, It is unlikely you will get a favorable downwind sail to run through Swinomish Channel, so if sailing is a must your choice now becomes, head for the pass and up the strait.
  • If your arriving by highway with a boat on a trailer, you have basically four choices that stand out. #1 Squalicum Harbor in Bellingham, #2 Cap Sante in Anacortes (sling only) #3 Cornet Bay in Deception Pass, #4 La Conner on Swinomish Channel. We have used all four (plus some others) and all have merit over others for certain situations particular to your plans. For instance, if your going to be gone a long time and want free parking, go to Squalicum, it's your only choice. Sling launching is not available at Cornet Bay.


frthoughts for post
draw from  >> Q & A, ten things, packing check list
special pic or cartoon of vacation

Suggested Itineraries 1-day 3-4 day 7+

One day from Squlaicum, one day from, Cornet, one day from Anacortes
3-4 from Squalicum, 7+ from ??
maps with red line and milages

Canadian Destinations

Intro
Jump off
Haro strait

  •  Victoria
  • Sidney Spit Park
  • Butchart Garden

everything below is simply being stored -- this is end of guidebook


    If you are like me you want to skip ahead and see some pictures before reading any further.  After all, if you don't like what you see, it's probably best to find out sooner rather than later.

Sunset over Sucia Island, viewed from Matia Island

Viewed from Deception Pass Bridge

See more pictures  >> click below

Chapter # TBA

Cruisers Packing List

     If your a beginner to the San Juans as well as a beginner to cruising (boat camping) you may find some useful advice here.  But some people don't like being told what to bring or what not to bring, or ask for directions when they are hopelessly lost.  So stop right here if you recognize yourself, and move on.

     OK now that the captain and skipper have quit reading lets see if we can ease the pain somewhat.  Were not going to even try to be all inclusive here, but just some little reminders to get you thinking about your cruise.  Obviously you have a spotless well equipped boat and many things are already on board.

       WarningPlease, please, please, this is just a bunch of suggestions, you don't really need all this stuff to go for a boat ride.
  • I'll bet you don't have an underwater flashlight, they are great for attracting (teasing) sea creatures after dark, and will add hours of entertainment time to answer your children's "I'm bored" comments. (hint, stick a cheap led flashlight in a ziplock bag) Now tie it to the end of your boat hook and poke it under water.
  • How about heavy duty zip lock bags, or the ones they sell at the outdoor outfitter stores for river running, you know for your cell phone, ipod, camera, wallet, etc, etc, etc.....
  • Speaking of waterproof have you got any good wood matches in a waterproof container? 
  • Matches mean campfires, that means you need a folding pruning saw. (get a good nasty sharp one)  TipLeave the ax, machetes, and hatchets at home because, #1 they don't work for gathering firewood, #2 someone may get hurt and your a long way from an ER. 
  • Here's one you really miss and then its too late - chap-stick with spf 99 (how high do the #'s go?)
  • Remember that hat that blew off into the water? ditto for glasses! you need a chin strap or leash.
  • OK, this is good one, get a second or third corkscrew, uh huh! (try em at home first to make sure you can trust-em)
  • Dramamine in all forms for everyone.
  • Cheap little led flashlights, lots of em, they're cheap.
  • Plastic kites (not paper) for beach fun, don't forget the string.
  • Multi-function tool that you carry in your pocket all the time.
  • Boat cleaning supplies, wax, polish, paint thinner to remove tars you track on board with your shoes. We seem to do our heavy cleaning while on a cruise, I see others doing the same.
    misc. boat repair supplies and tools. (sail tape, soft scrub)


    Much, much more to come, keep reading.
Those were just some starter ideas for boaters.
Since some folks really benefit by having in depth detailed instructions and are lost without to-do lists.
 They will find below a list for general travel just for them.
Click here and read more >>>>>

Chapter # 7

Saddlebag Island

    Like an open sign on a stormy night, Saddlebag is there when you need it. It's a very nice place to stop for lunch with an easy shoreline hike.  You may spend the night on shore in one of a dozen or more campsites or on your boat in the little cove.  If the cove is full just move out a little further and anchor in twenty feet.  Another of what I call the "drive by islands" Saddlebag gets overlooked as cruisers drive by to bigger names, but more than once we have been caught with nightfall fast approaching and ducked in to avoid navigating in the dark. The moderately steep gravel beach is dinghy friendly and there is no float. The beach front campfire pit is so close you can yell to the boat for more smores.



Saddlebag Island 


Looking north from beach at Saddlebag
"The end of a perfect day is the beginning of a perfect evening"








Chapter # 8

Jones Island

How can I tell everyone about my favorite place! How about this, "Jones is so popular that no one goes there anymore." That should keep the crowds at bay.  While it is true that Jones is popular, we have never left due to lack of a spot to anchor, but several times we wanted a place at the dock, and anchoring was the only option. Several times we have been at anchor and simply moved to the float when someone left.

The North facing cove protects boaters from the predominately southwest weather making it an ideal place to weather a blow.  The float is much longer than James or Matia holding four or five on each side or only two if any forty footers are about. The cove has four or five buoys and lots of extra room closer in or further out for anchoring. Those that favor stern tie ups will find handy trees or rock outcroppings out the back.  On shore are a dozen or more nice camp sites with fire rings.  Jones has a water system a hundred feet up the trail and piped in water at some camp sites.  Further up the trail are four modern composting restrooms.

The friendly little deer are legendary on Jones, I say little because they are noticeably smaller than the deer on other islands.  Some (not all) are quite tame, begging for handouts, allowing petting and ear rubs.

The other side of the  island has more anchor buoys and campsites and is a favorite of nearby Deer Harbor kayaker's.  Hiking trails circle the island and afford great views in all directions.

It's real easy to make Jones your destination and wile away the days, its close proximity to Deer Harbor make running for groceries easy. But don't forget "no one goes to Jones because of the crowds"


Jones is a great jump off point for crossing Haro Strait

Taxi service at Jones (Orcas in background)

Swing at Kayak campground

Shore side trail loop is easy and takes under an hour



This deer was too friendly

Chapter # 9

Cypress Head

Cypress Head is really a tiny island next to Cypress Island and connected with a narrow isthmus where you land your dinghy.  No floats, but in the little bay are three anchor buoys. If you can get your boat in close enough you can get out of the swells and wakes that sometime plague boaters at unprotected Pelican Beach a short distance northward.  On shore are campsites with the best views and even worse falls if you sleep walk.

Hiking trails connect with the rest of Cypress island trails, linking Pelican Beach, Eagle Harbor, and Eagle Bluff.


Cypress Head and Pelican Beach are popular destinations for kayakers and small sailboats from Anacortes and Bellingham, For them, visiting Cypress does not require crossing Rosario Strait.





Chapter # 10

Clark Island

Clark Island is overlooked by many cruisers rushing northward to Sucia. Not much more than a speed bump in Rosario Strait, Clark and almost twin Barnes Island are located between Lummi and Orcas Island. Although nearer to Orcas, Clark is more often visited by Lummi residents out for a lunch spot, day trip, or an easy overnight-er. Clark is only a few hundred feet wide where the campground is situated and barely above storm waves, the east side has anchor buoys but is open to the wrath of Rosario Strait. The west side also has anchor buoys and neighboring but Private Barnes Island tends to somewhat protect anchored boats. Both sides of the Island are subject to the ever changing north south tidal currents so a loose dinghy will be swept away in a hurry.

Distances to where your going affect when you get there:

  • Squalicum Harbor (Bellingham) to Clark is 16 nm
  • Clark to Sucia is 7 nm
  • Clark to Blakelys for ice cream and fuel is 8 nm
  • Clark to Cap Sante (Anacortes) is 15 - 17 nm depending on route





Clark Island State Park Overview


The little hook cove on the east side extends under water to snag boaters that don't pay attention to their charts or correctly interpret surface features. The littlest of the Sisters may surprise skippers thinking the Nav. aid is further south.

Chapter # 11

Orcas Island

    The biggest and easiest to identify of the San Juans, due to its unique horseshoe shape, Orcas plays a prominent role in most cruises.  Many destinations require you to go around the island or transit a pass.  Orcas spans the area providing a shield to the inner sounds and channels.
    Home to Mt Constitution and Moran State Park, Orcas Island has lots to offer.  The city of Eastsound on Orcas has an burgeoning  art and crafts atmosphere, complete with many shops and eateries catering to the steady flow of tourists and travelers.







Doe Island

    Doe Island is a cute little park, sitting so close to Orcas Island it is easily missed even if your looking for it. Sitting just a few hundred feet off the east side of Orcas and just two miles or so north of Obstruction Pass, it's a side trip you should not miss. Stop there as a lunch stop or overnight-er. On shore are a few campsites and an old fashioned pit toilet, plus a few picnic tables. The circular shoreline trail may be walked in under ten minutes, maybe less than five if you speed walk.

Doe Island float
As of this writing I was told that last winter, a storm damaged the float and it has not been repaired. Possibly the park is closed, but I would go see for myself.


Obstruction Pass Park
    Obstruction Pass Park is somewhat unique in the fact that it is accessible by land or water. It is tucked away at the south east corner of Orcas Island at the end of a short half mile or so trail. The small campground is open to boaters, hikers alike. A single buoy is in the small bay plus room to anchor. The beach is dinghy friendly however being open to the pass and resulting traffic makes for lots of wake action. There are trails to hike and great views, bring your camera and lunch.


Obstruction Pass




Olga






    Olga offered us an empty dock, so we gladly accepted. On other visits we turned away vowing to return when there was room. The private mooring field is peppered with so many buoys it demanded full attention slipping through.






The sign says it all 




Olga public dock has room for about three boats on each side, all buoys are private.




    The dinghy's at Olga belong to locals, there is no access to beach except, a nasty slippery, very steep, and thorny trail in brush under ramp. 

    On shore at top of ramp is a flagpole, and a memorial bench. There are a couple blocks, if that, of roads to walk, some say private drive, keep out. There is no bathroom. The old store across the street is closed up and the property is for sale. Up a moderately steep hill about 1/4-1/3 mile is a restaurant on the main road. Some other boaters made the hike and reported good food. Other than private homes, most which look like second homes, that's it for Olga. I'm glad we finally stopped by Olga, but except for a place to tie up, what can I say.




    The next time we are in the area and need a place to spend the night, we will certainly consider Olga, but I'm sure we will simply run another ten minutes over to Rosario.


Oh, and we saw a little baby deer on the beach, way to go Olga!











Chapter # 12

Odlin County Park


There are few county parks in the islands, and they are easily overlooked. Odlin on Lopez, is very close to Friday Harbor, and right on Upright Channel, but is little visited by cruisers.  A little dip in the side of Lopez Island creates an exposed bay subject to wakes when your anchored, but it has a nice beach, and agreat view of passing boats and ferry traffic. Odlin has four anchor buoys with lots of open room. There is a day use only dock, but you can anchor very close and use as a dinghy dock, the bathrooms are a short walk. Since Odlin is accessible by car the campground will be busy

Lopez Island is considered the best Island for bicycling due to being relatively flat, although we have found several hills we prefer to push our bikes  up. Odlin Park is the perfect choice for unloading bikes at the dock.  If you have ever used a dinghy to shuttle bikes to shore, you will appreciate the convenience of a dock.  If your goal is to bicycle Lopez or just ride into Lopez Village, Odlin would be an excellent choice.  

Sometimes boaters have land bound counterparts needing  car accessible places to camp where they can all rendezvous, Odlin Park and Washington Park fill the need.


distance from Odlin to Friday Harbor 5 nm
Odlin to Orcas Landing 3.5 nm



Odlin and Spencer Spit parks on Lopez Island